How Coco Chanel worked for the Russian ballet

Chanel's introduction to the Russian ballet world took place in 1913, when she saw the premiere of Igor Stravinsky's ‘The Rite of Spring’ as part of Sergei Diaghilev's ‘Ballets Russes’ in Paris. The production was shockingly innovative, which is what attracted the young designer.

Her collaboration with Diaghilev began later. In 1924, Chanel took part in a production of ‘Le Train Bleu’, with a libretto by Jean Cocteau. She dressed the dancers in functional clothing designed for sports and leisure – swimsuits, sweaters and tennis shoes. This was the first time in the history of ballet that casual fashion appeared on stage. But, the breakthrough wasn't limited to this: the costumes were made of jersey, a knitted fabric previously reserved for menswear.

A scene from "The Blue Train"

In another production, ‘Apollon Musagete’, Chanel departed from the "beach" aesthetic and created costumes imbued with antique austerity and noble simplicity. George Balanchine's choreography gravitated toward purity and classical form.

Chanel was also one of the main anonymous patrons of the ‘Russian Seasons’ and Sergei Diaghilev became a close friend of hers. After his sudden death in Venice in 1929, she was among those who paid for his burial at the San Michele cemetery.