How a Frenchman fed an old Russian town authentic croissants

On weekends and holidays, a tourist train arrives in Pereslavl from Moscow. Its most prompt and well-informed passengers immediately head past the historic center to the outskirts, to the industrial zone, to be exact, where the French patisserie of Monsieur Frederic Andrieux is located.

So, how did a Frenchman end up in Russia?

Frederic claims to have been trained by the best pastry chefs and worked in many countries worldwide, from the Caribbean to Asia and the UAE. But, he somehow decided to settle in Russia and he’s lived there since 2007.

“The climate in the Philippines didn't suit me at all; I was constantly sick and really wanted to leave. And then, an offer came from my former boss: he was working in Russia and looking for a head pastry chef for himself,” Frederic recalls.

“I had received such offers before, but I didn't want to go to Russia: I watched TV in France and knew it was a dangerous country. But, my boss started to convince me otherwise: ‘It's actually not like that, come and see for yourself.’ I came and I stayed!”

There's hardly anything the Frenchman hasn't done during his 18 years in Russia. He’s worked in various restaurants, taught a pastry course at a culinary school, trained staff across the country and even opened his own chocolate factory in Moscow.

In 2015, he went to the city of Pereslavl, Yaroslavl Region (150 km from Moscow), and found his place there. As with any true Frenchman, Frederic's story isn't complete without love. Cherchez la femme!

A Russian patisserie & a Russian wife

It was, however, business that brought Frederic to Pereslavl and, together with a former partner, opened a patisserie in the city center. The place quickly became popular, but the partners' interests diverged. So, Frederic found another location on the city's outskirts. The focus of his patisserie is classic French desserts. And they quickly became a hit with both locals and tourists.

Before meeting Frederic, Victoria worked in the tourism industry. She is originally from Pereslavl, which is a part of the popular Golden Ring touristic route, and she knows the city and its surroundings, as well as the history of these places, very well. When the Frenchmen with the patisserie appeared, she came out of curiosity to have a look, and then started working with them.

First as a manager and then in the kitchen: “Frederic needed helpers and I wanted to learn something new. Now, it's our family business! From early morning until late at night, we are all here: we work, eat and meet with friends,” Victoria says.

The couple already has two children. The younger one, eight-year-old Petya, has also become fascinated with cooking and spends all his free time with Frederic in the workshop or the main area.

“At home, he tries to cook, too: he can already fry ‘syrniki’ (cottage cheese pancakes) and make cutlets. Frederic supports this passion and we hope our son will continue the business. For now, dad has bought him a popcorn machine: Peter sells it on the veranda in the summer. He also bakes cookies himself, packages them nicely and sells them,” Victoria shares.

The influx of foreigners in Pereslavl

There are many foreigners in ancient Pereslavl, including French people. They’re attracted by its untouched “old” Russia. Everyone tries to do something good for the city. Some restore old houses, others do blacksmithing, some sew or bake gingerbread.

Twice a year, Frederic and his wife host a dinner with live music at the patisserie for friends.

“In those moments, I feel very pleased and warm, I understand: everything is good with me, I am at home. And I am surrounded by open, talented and profound people.”

Once, for his birthday, friends presented Frederic a 3-meter Eiffel Tower replica. Now, it’s become a true symbol of the patisserie.

Did the Frenchman become a little Russian over the years in Russia?

“I've come to love the ‘banya’ (bathhouse). I understood the charm of Russian borsch, especially with black bread, ‘salo’ (cured fat) and all the accompaniments.”

Frederic admits he has become more tolerant, more patient. By nature, he is very responsible and demanding, especially regarding work.

“But, here, I encountered the Russian 'avos' (the untranslatable notion of 'hopefully it will work out'). I tried to fight it, but nothing came of it. And, in the end, I calmed down. When something goes wrong, I don't get nervous anymore: everything will work out by itself. The main thing is that I have a family here, friends and they are all doing well and I am engaged in my beloved work. And a person doesn't need more for happiness!”

The full version of the interview is available (in Russian) on the 'Nation' magazine’s website.