Service à la russe: The way you eat was invented by the Russians!
First appetizers, then main courses and, finally, dessert. This way of serving food is called ‘Service à la russe’ (serving Russian style) and, today, it has become commonplace for residents of many countries. But how did this happen?
Service à la russe
Until the mid-19th century, ‘Serving French style’, when all the dishes were immediately put on the table, was the standard in Europe’s high society.. Hot dishes were served on braziers, so that they did not cool down. Guests filled their plates themselves, but since they could not reach the other end of the table, they had to take from the nearest dishes.
In ‘serving Russian style’, each guest was given a set of cutlery and dishes were brought one by one in the order that was on the menu. Thus, each guest could try everything.
The order of dishes at ‘serving Russian style’ was described by many foreign travelers who were invited to royal feasts and receptions of the highest level.
However, the change in “serving” is associated with the name of Prince Alexander Kurakin, the Russian ambassador to France during the era of Napoleon Bonaparte. The Russian diplomat often organized gala receptions and the entire high society of Paris became acquainted with Russian traditions.
A portrait of A. Kurakin, 1802.
Another person who introduced the fashion for ‘serving Russian style’ was Marie-Antoine Carême, a Parisian chef, who cooked for the high society of France, for the British King George V, for the banker Rothschild and also worked in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. Gradually, ‘serving Russian style’ became popular with ordinary people, as well.
Zichi M. A. Solemn dinner in the Granovitaya Chamber, 1883
