Who invented ‘okroshka’ soup?

A culinary Investigation

The word ‘okroshka’ shares a common root with the Russian verb ‘kroshit’ (to crumble). And, indeed, it consists of finely chopped vegetables mixed with ‘kvass’ (a bread-based soft drink) or ‘kefir’ (a fermented milk-drink). Other cold soups – like ‘botvinya’ and ‘tyurya’, known since time immemorial – can be considered its relatives.

However, the trail of origin leads to a book by Nikolay Osipov called ‘The Old Russian Housewife, Housekeeper and Cook’, published in 1790. In it, the recipe for this dish first appears: "‘Okroshka’. Chop up and crumble various roasted meats with onions, cucumbers and sour cream; add salt and pour into cucumber brine, or ‘kvass’ or sour ‘shchi’." The brine or ‘kvass’ will typically soften tough meat that had been salted the previous fall.

That said, the dish likely appeared much earlier. It was simply so common that no one thought it necessary to write down the recipe. Incidentally, it was originally considered a meat appetizer served with a small amount of ‘kvass’.

From appetizer to summer soup

‘Okroshka’ gained its "status" as a summer soup in the early 19th century. Boiled potatoes also began appearing in recipes – although the root vegetable had been introduced as early as the reign of Peter the Great, it took time to become widespread. 

By the mid‑19th century, ‘okroshka’ had made its way from village cottages to into the salon of high society. In her 1861 book ‘A Gift to Young Housewives’, Elena Molokhovets offered several elegant variations of the dish.

Vegetarian ‘okroshka’ was to be made from cucumbers, pickled mushrooms, apples, peaches and pickled grapes. Then add boiled potatoes, beetroot and green beans and pour a mixture of ‘kvass’ and sour ‘shchi’ with Sarepta mustard and Provençal oil over it.

For meat ‘okroshka’, Molokhovets suggested taking a full plate of roasted game, beef, veal, lamb, ham and corned beef, adding cucumbers, boiled eggs, onions, tarragon, mustard, sour cream and diluting it with ‘kvass’. Optionally, add ice.

The modern version of ‘okroshka’ appeared in the Soviet years. In the 1939 book ‘The Book of Delicious and Healthy Food’, you can find a section dedicated to cold summer soups and several ‘okroshka’ recipes: meat-based, vegetable-based, and fruit‑infusion-based.

In the 1960s, people even began to add sausage and frankfurters began to ‘okroshka’, instead of assorted meats.

‘Kvass’ or ‘kefir’?

The earliest ‘okroshka’ recipes were ‘kvass’‑based. This soft drink has been known in Russia since ancient times, with the first mentions dating back to the late 10th century. By the way, the "sour shchi" that appears in the 1790 recipe is not a soup, but a highly carbonated drink similar to ‘kvass’.

The ‘kefir’ version of ‘okroshka’ became popular relatively recently. ‘Kefir’ was originally known only in the Caucasus. The first report on the benefits of this drink was made by physician Alexander Dzhogin in 1867. However, industrial production of ‘kefir’ only began in the early 20th century. ‘Kefir’ ‘okroshka’ likely dates to the Soviet period.

Okroshka Day

Today, besides ‘kefir’, ‘okroshka’ is also made with ‘ayran’ and ‘tan’ – other fermented dairy products. There are also fans of ‘okroshka’ made with mineral water – in short, to each their own!

And, despite the annual summer debates over which version tastes better, ‘okroshka’ is so beloved in Russia that a holiday has even been created in its honour: Okroshka Day is celebrated on May 30, when hot weather has already arrived and it's the perfect time for a cold soup!

We invite you to experiment and try making unusual versions of okroshka.