How ‘shchi’ became one of the main symbols of Russian cuisine (PHOTOS)

Centuries on the Russian table

This soup has been cooked in Old Russia since at least the 10th century. Many historians believe this happened when Russians began cultivating cabbage, which was imported through trade with Byzantium. It quickly became established in Russian lands, due to its versatility, its ability to be stored throughout winter, its affordability and the resulting dishes were quite filling. "Commoners eat it twice a day," wrote Dutch traveler Cornelis de Bruijn, who visited Moscow in 1702. Interestingly, it was primarily white cabbage that became popular, although other varieties (such as cauliflower and red cabbage) were also known. Cabbage was dried, fermented, simmered in the oven and, of course, used to make ‘shchi’.

Workmen's canteen in a village, Russia, circa 1890. by L Boulanger.

The name of the soup goes back to the Old Russian word ‘shti’, meaning "something nourishing" So, it turns out that ‘shchi’ is a relative of ‘sytost’ (‘satiety’). However, some historians believe that the word ‘shchi’ shares common roots with the words ‘sok’ (‘juice’) and ‘shchavel’ (‘sorrel’). There is some truth in this, as well: sorrel is also often used for this soup.

The magic of the Russian stove

The secret to its filling quality lies not only in the cabbage, but also in the Russian stove. In it, the soup wasn't boiled, but simmered for hours, allowing all the ingredients to acquire an incredible softness and the flavors to intertwine harmoniously. ‘Shchi’ didn't spoil for a long time; on the contrary, it would steep and become even more delicious.

Today, similar temperature regimes can be achieved in ovens, slow cookers and other culinary gadgets. However, you can also cook it on a regular stovetop.

Tip: Make ‘shchi’ in the evening and let it steep overnight. Then serve with black bread and sour cream.

‘Shchi’ is not just cabbage

The genius of ‘shchi’ lies in its versatility. Besides cabbage, it’s also made with nettles, sorrel and quinoa. For instance, a recipe for nettle ‘shchi’ is found in Sergey Drukontsev's book ‘Culinary Notes’ from 1779: nettles were blanched and combined with egg, beef and lard. And sorrel soup ("green shchi") remains a popular summer soup to this day.

What else besides cabbage is needed for ‘shchi’? It all depends on the means, as they say. It was served both in peasant huts and in royal chambers.
The poorer classes ate ‘shchi’ made with water or "empty" ones. The wealthier would add meat, mushrooms or fish.

There are versions of ‘shchi’ made with dried cabbage, some with sauerkraut and some with frozen cabbage. All variations are valid. There is no canonical recipe. But, ‘shchi’ was cooked by all social classes and throughout history. Even Peter the Great, who opened a "window to Europe", preferred simple Russian ‘shchi’ for lunch.

Centuries have passed, eras have changed, but ‘shchi’ remains the dish that unites all Russians.